Drypoint using Akua Intaglio on Sintra

I've been using 3mm Sintra sheets (it resembles a plastic foam-core) as a matrix for drypoints for about 3 years now. My editions aren't huge and I can get decent pulls up to about 40 prints. The lines look good--like an etching--but without the hefty cost of copper. One drawback might be plate tone and the easy-to-scratch factor (you can only slightly minimize scratches by burnishing, unlike copper), but I like plate tone and incidental marks, so it's all good. I ventured back into the print studio last week to finish up an edition of this print. I ended up making a huge technical blunder, but that comes later in the post.

Step 1: scratch into a Sintra plate that has it's edges filed and sanded. To do the drypoint, I used a carbide scribe, which you can easily find at a hardware store (It's used as a plumber's scribe to mark on copper pipes), but you can use all kinds of things from sandpaper to a scraper. Here's a close up so you can see what the plate looks like after it's been scratched. (I've inked the plate up a couple of times, that's why you see black--it's just ink residue.)

Step 2: Ink the plate. I use Akua Intaglio ink. It never forms an ink skin and it cleans up with water. Here I've applied it with a card.










Step 3: Wipe excess Akua Intaglio ink with a paper towel. I've found that if I use a tarlatan I wipe off too much ink. On occasion, depending on the plate, I've used only telephone book pages. If you're into conserving materials (always a good practice) you can rinse used paper towels with water, ring them out, and hang them to dry for the next day's printing. 

 Step 3a: admire your efforts. :)


 

Step 4: Dampen paper. I used Arches paper for this project. No need to soak paper, just slip it into the paper bath and pull it out. OK, you're ready to print. Note: Make sure to fully blot the paper, or your lines will look like what I have to the left. I've found that Akua is unforgiving if the paper is not evenly blotted. Use a drafting brush to help brush off any excess water spots.

Here's how the print is supposed to look.

Step 5: Clean up. This is super easy. Use Dawn dish detergent and put several drops on your plate. Don't add water yet and wipe with a paper towel. After your plate has been fully wiped with soap, add some squirts of water. I never seem to get my plates fully clean. You could use Bon Ami mixed with a little bit of water to form a paste and gently hand wash your plate if you want all the ink removed.

Ready for the technical blunder? I was supposed to chine colle a print (a solar plate on Japanese paper) to this print. I managed to band-aid the chine colle later, which I'll post about soon.